September is here. Not only do we transition our beds and containers to fall, now is the time to get our lawns back in shape. A lot of the fescue lawns were stressed and damaged by the hot, dry summer. The most common way to quickly improve a lawn is with some seeding. If your lawn is mostly full but has thinned over seeding would be a good choice. If it has really suffered a re-seeding may be needed. Regardless of which method you are doing, there are many points that are the same.

#1 – Prepare the lawn. Weeds should be sprayed ahead of time. For leafy weeds, I like the weed-out. It will clean up dandelions, sourge and other weeds. It should be sprayed 1-2 weeks before seeding. Grassy weeds can be controlled two ways. The BioAdvanced crabgrass control will help with annual grasses like sandbur and crabgrass. Perennial grasses like Bermuda will need to be killed off with Kilz-all or Round Up. Good control of weeds before seeding is important because we can’t treat again until the new grass is tall enough to have been mowed a couple of times.

#2 – Choose a good seed. We carry 5-Star seed. It is a blend of five of the top performing varieties in this area. It does very well in sun and light shade. It is low growing to reduce mowing and has a deep green color. If you get seed elsewhere always plant a blend! If you plant a monoculture (one variety) and it has a disease or bug problem it will affect the entire lawn, with a blend many varieties may not be affected so the lawn is not lost. I also encourage investing in premium seed. Cheaper seed may have more weed seed or in the case of K-31, it is a coarse bladed grass that doesn’t hold up in hot dry conditions. Grass seed genetics have improved greatly, just like improvements in our flowers, take advantage of these improvements.

“Over-seeding should be done at about 5 lbs. per 1000 feet.”

#3 – Prior to applying the seed, mow a notch or two shorter so the seed can make good soil contact. A slice seeder is the best choice for seeding. It cuts grooves ¼” – 3/8” deep and applies the seed. It is pretty much required for re-seeding a lawn. If you are over-seeding the worst spots can be roughed up by used of a garden rake and then seeded. When re-seeding use 8-10 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Over-seeding should be done at about 5 lbs. per 1000 feet. It is possible to put too much seed on. It will come up very thick and then choke itself out and you may end up with a thinner stand than if you used less seed.

#4- Fertilizer:  Use a starter fertilizer. It is specifically designed to help new seed get established. It is the only lawn fertilizer with phosphorous. It is needed for healthy grass. Once the root system develops, we have plenty in our soils, but new grass with no roots can benefit from some at surface level. Four to six weeks later apply a Fall feeding to the grass to help prepare it for Winter.

#5 – Water:  Water is the most important part of any seeding. It will determine the success or failure of all your work. Grass seed must be kept moist until it germinates and the root can get into the soil. If the seed sprouts and then dies out the root will die. The key is frequent, light watering. Then gradually wean it back to normal dries.