Some historians have written about strawberries dating as far back as 2,200 years. Strawberries grew wild in Italy as long ago as 234 B.C. Some of the first Europeans coming to Virginia in 1588 enjoyed strawberries where their ships landed. Settlers in Massachusetts ate strawberries cultivated by American Indians as early as 1643.

The westward movement after 1860 brought strawberries to many parts of the United States.

California-grown strawberries date back to the early 1900s. Today, more than 25,000 acres of strawberries are planted annually in California, producing 80 percent of the strawberries grown in the United States. On average, each acre produces about 21 tons of strawberries. Now, that’s a harvest!

The strawberry is relatively easy to grow, but success depends on careful attention to cultural requirements. Good care of a small strawberry patch will yield more fruit than a poorly tended large one.

Site selection

Select a well-drained, sunny spot. Wet soils reduce plant vigor and increase disease. The soil should have good organic matter content. Poor soils may be amended with compost, rotted manure, straw, hay, old silage, grass clippings or similar materials.

Select a site, if possible, that is higher than the surrounding area. Cold air settles in low areas, and a late spring frost may kill blossoms.

Use a herbicide to kill grass and weeds and plow or rototill the area. It is best to do this the year before planting, but due diligence can make it happen this year.

“The strawberry is relatively easy to grow, but success depends on careful attention to cultural requirements. “

Plant selection

Choose vigorous “virus-free” plants from local nurseries. Their performance is influenced by the local environment. Varieties grown in other states may not do well in Kansas.

There are two varieties of strawberries to consider:

– June-bearing: This type is usually the most productive in home gardens. They bear one crop each year from mid-May to mid-June depending on the weather and location. Example: Allstar

-Everbearing: This type produces one crop in mid-May to mid-June and another when the weather cools. Examples: Eversweet and Fort Laramie

Planting

Mid-March to early April is the best time to plant strawberries in Kansas. Begin as soon as the soil can be worked during this period.

Apply fertilizer recommended by a soil test, or 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet of 10-10-10 or similar fertilizer. Work it into the top 6 inches of soil.

If strawberry plants are bare-root and can’t be set out immediately, keep roots moist and store at about 40 degrees. Plants in packs can be stored in a cool place.

Set plants so the crowns are even with the ground surface after the soil has been firmed around the roots. Spread the roots slightly and pack soil around the root system.

If fertilizer wasn’t worked into the soil earlier, a fertilizer solution can be poured around the plant to promote rapid growth. Mix 2 to 3 level tablespoons of 12-12-12, 18-46-0 or 16-32-0 fertilizer into 1 gallon of water. Let stand overnight, stir until dissolved, and pour 1 cup around each plant. Irrigate the entire planting with water if soil is dry.

The first year

Survival depends on adequate soil moisture. Strawberries are shallow-rooted and require frequent watering following transplanting. They need 1 inch of water per week between rain and irrigation. Runners from the mother plant develop roots and store energy for fruit buds that set on in fall for next year’s crop.

Blossoms on June-bearing plants should be removed the first summer. Allowing plant to fruit the first year weakens them for heavy fruiting the second year. Be patient. Buy strawberries this year. Next year have a feast, ice cream and all.

Weeding is necessary to keep competition for food and water down. When using a hoe, scrape only the surface of the soil cutting off weeds. Chopping at the soil or cultivating encourages weeds by bringing dormant weed seed to the surface to germinate. Avoid disturbing plant roots.

In winter, young plants and established beds need mulching for protection. Severe cold can kill fruit buds and injure roots and crowns.

Apply mulch after plants have been exposed to several frosts — temperatures in the mid- to low 20s, after growth has stopped but before heavy freezes are expected. This usually happens between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Wheat straw or leaves make a good mulch and generally are readily available.

In spring, remove part of the mulch when the plant leaves appear yellow. Keep the mulch nearby in case of unexpected frosts. Later, remove enough mulch so a few leaves can be seen, leaving the rest to conserve moisture and keep the fruit off the soil.